Vegas - Finding Good Beer in a Cultural Desert

In your 20's, Vegas is often a fun a trip - well at least it was back in the 90s (dating myself there, aren't I?). By your 30's roll around, the glamour is gone and Vegas seems jaded, more than a touch trashy and only tolerable for a short weekend, and you will leave with a silent sense of relief of having survived. I am here to tell that Vegas in your 40's is hell on earth. I mean hell on earth. Hot, dry, dusty and chock full of people that you wouldn't want to share an elevator, much less a hotel or an entire weekend. It is also a cultural wasteland where cheap booze and sleaze reigns supreme.

Unfortunately my primary passion, hiking the high deserts of Utah, California and Arizona often routes me through this purgatory.  So this most recent trip, I attempted to rehabilitate Vegas a bit and to seek out a couple of notable beer establishments.  Now full confession here, you will either need a car or be willing (meaning sane enough) to stay off the strip to go to these places. That is a qualifier, but here are three places to go.

North of Las Vegas, the desert begins to take full grip but you can find an oasis to wet your palette up in the Tenaya and Cheyenne intersection.  Your first stop here, should be the Tenaya Creek Brewery.  Here you can sample offerings from Las Vegas's finest micobrewery. For you heavy hitter fans, you can try the Tandem IIPA, God of Thunder (Baltic Porter), and their Imperial Stout offerings.  There are also straight IPA, Red Ale, Lagers and Hefeweizen on tap for those wanting something not so intense. After sampling these beverages you can walk down the street 100 meters (a couple hundred feet) to your next stop. At this point, I would strongly recommend just getting a hotel room at the La Quinta Inn across the street. It is cheap, clean, free parking and convenient, and there is a free Continental breakfast with coffee to nurse your hangover the next morning.

The next stop is Aces and Ales which will offers fifty quality taps, a very good (albeit pricey) bottle list. Cosmetically, the bar is not that much, outside has that strip mall type of feel.  Inside isn't much better, there appears to be 20 seats at the bar and 15 of those are dedicated to those playing video poker at the bar, which is EXACTLY what you came to avoid.  Don't despair, the dark, seedy, sensory depriving interior here is of no consequence to you. They have beer here, and some very good stuff.

The beer menu does rotate constantly, but while I was there it included some pretty awesome stuff including Ballast Point's Sculpin, Sierra Nevada's Hoptimum, some Evil Twin offerings (Ryan and the Beaster Bunny), and some Cigar City collaborations. No junk here, quality beers served is semi-appropriate glassware and economical for Vegas ($6 pours for various pre-determined sizes).  I am fully confident that you will not be disappointed with whatever is on offer.

The food bills itself as gastropub influenced but the think more of "Friday's" than your favorite gastropub. Other minor gripes include having to order your beer by number from your waitress. Do not expect your server to advise, although the one bartender seem spot on all of her summations and advice.

All in all, this place isn't going to blow you away, but the tap list is great, the bottle list is extensive - if you are ready to drop down $45 you can even grab a Firestone Walker 14th Anniversary.  Compared to the swill offered in Vegas, this place is paradise and paired with a Tenaya Creek trip it is worth a trip to the hinterlands.

The last place is near the airport, and I am really saving for those out of town (in a big way) guests like myself. Out on Eastern Avenue off of the I-215, there is a small liquor store, Khoury's Fine Wine and Spirits specializing in fine wine and craft beer.  This little store has 12  great rotating taps, and about 200 bottles of craft beer available as well as a fantastic owner with a knowledgeable staff.  If you are intending to bring beer home, this is a MUST stop. This is really your only stop unless you are headed to a "big box" liquor store to try to score some beer that the locals haven't scoured off.  Khoury has some super quality taps, and on a recent visit I was able to score Squatter's Brew Pub - Outer Darkness, a Tenaya Creek cask, and a Epic Brainless Series. If that does not tempt you, how about a Ballast Point Black IPA, a Hanger 24 offering and an obscure Sierra Nevada release.  You get the point, no standard crap here, good taps and super friendly knowledgeable service.

The tap area is where you can also enjoy a bottle chosen from the cooler is casual and relaxed. Old wine/bourbon casks mixed with long tables serve as your seats/tables and you are likely to strike up a conversation with a beer rep from the area or a fellow craft beer enthusiast even if they have ridiculous calf tattoos and shorts from the 1980's.  It would be relatively pointless for me to list the beers available here since Khoury's runs over his low volume frequently and the beer's constantly rotating. However, on this most recent trip, I picked up some Prairie Artsinal Ales, some Epic "Big Bag Baptist", Joseph James's Fifth Anniversary, a Bruery Tradewind, a Mikkeller Chiptole Porter, and much, much more. And how friendly is Khoury?  I was checking out and he said that I had a great selection of beers to take homes but then showed me that he was unpacking a Dogfish Head American Beauty and offered it to me based on my tastes. Score. Win. Thank you.

Beer Advocate ranks this place this place as World Class, a rating which I think is questionable. It should be excellent, Khoury's primarily a wine guy (look at the space distribution in the store) and the bottle selection is not overwhelming. However, it is excellent (I would kill for a place like this in Vancouver) and what it lacks in quantity it makes up for in quality and service.  So my advice is to definitely go here, and bring some bubble wrap or thick clothes to wrap your beer bottles in your suitcase. And, oh yeah, get a cab to the airport and enjoy the taps.

One Night in Bellingham

I already covered Bellingham's best beer attraction, Elizabeth Station in a previous post.  For many of us living in Canada, Bellingham is a quick stop to go invade Trader Joe's or the Costco for large quantities of cheese, consumer goods, and Trader Joe's salsa.  While certainly dwarfed by the options further south (Seattle, Olympia and Portland), there are enough stops here for a good night out.  And as an added bonus for us dwellers north of the border, staying over 48 hours allows you to bring over that 8.75 liters of beer no questions asked.

The Dangers of Drinking Two Beers Ascension

So quick tips for a night Bellingham, Washington are in order.  First things first, as always, securing a cheap, semi-convenient place to stay.  Hands down easy choice here, The Coachman Inn offers clean, very inexpensive rooms with free Wi-Fi and a very "walkable" 20 minutes to downtown to hit the two bars that you will go to on that night.  Hopefully, you have already started the day at the Chukanut Brewpub or Elizabeth Station, if not you can save that for the next day.

For the best craft beer options, you really have two solid local choices.  First is the wonderfully quirky The Green Frog.  Imagine if you took a local acoustic concert hall, a grilled cheese joint, and a craft beer bar and fired up your 3D printer.  The Green Frog is what it would produce.  Instruments on the wall, tractor seats at the bar and a healthy mix of locals, students, and music lovers. The tap list is always solid with great, great, regional choices and a few surprises quite possible.  While I was there, Two Beers Brewing's - Ascension was on tap with all of its 18% ABV robustness.  Not widely circulated, it was great to see an area bar secure such an exclusive beer.  The grilled cheese selection here was fun, and very tasty and the barkeeps super laid back and funny.  This place is really more of an acoustic tavern so expect music (separate seating area for concerts) and a small bar area.  If you can put up with that, then it is a fun, local spot.

Second choice, within reasonable stumbling distance is the The Copper Hog.  18 taps here are the highlight with a wide selection of  choices from Washington, California, Oregon and Colorado  usually available.  The food here lives up to its gastropub billing.  There is nothing particularly special about the space, it is a mix of gastropub, sports bar and craft beer. Consequently it can be overrun by idiots drinking Tecate and ordering shots of Jose Cuervo.  But don't let that deter you from stopping in, especially on weekday or Sunday when it is quieter for a bite to eat and few pints.

From here it is a twenty minute or short cab back to the Coachman where you can crash in peace and plot further beer drinking adventures.

Alibi Room - "400" Celebration

It's On! First Cask Is Poured

The turn of every hundredth tap list at Alibi Room spawns a multi-day festival of beer that sends us Lower Mainlanders into a rapturous state.  This past week, Vancouver's premier beer drinking establishment published their 400th beer/tap list and kicked off four glorious days of celebration.  As usual Nigel and his team gathered a set of excellent beers from local BC brewers, the United States, and even three different releases from Cantillion.  As an added bonus, all beers were CAD$4 for a 10oz. pour and the excellent value of the "Frat Bats" (Four 6oz. pours) were offered at CAD$11.25.  Needless to say, it was a highly popular event and well attended.

I managed to make it down for opening night (Monday) and closing night (Thursday) to partake in the festivities and was able to sample some really special beers with fellow beer enthusiasts.  Speaking of enthusiasts, I showed up about 20 minutes early on the first day and found 5 other geeks beer nerds guys with beards people (including fellow blogger Barley Mowat) already queueing in the lobby area.  By the time the doors officially opened at 4pm, there were a good 50 people in line outside.  Now when confronted with this many amazing beers and a high volume of competitors (uh, I mean other beer drinkers), it is necessary to develop a drinking strategy.  On this day, I went after the casks first, followed by the three Cantillions and then a break before taking round two.

400 Festival in Full Swing. All Hail Alibi Room!

Partial Drink List from Day 1 (some notes are illegible later in the night):

Tofino Brewing - Spruce Tip Aged Hop Cretin' IPA (on cask). Very solid, but not spectacular.  Strong spruce presence was a plus but when I had this beer last year, I thought it was better.
Phillips - Hop Therapy (on cask) . Slight disappointed on cask, bottled version definitely superior.
Cantillion -  Kriek.You cannot go wrong with this tart, cherry wonderful Kriek
Cantillion- Gueze.  A classic
Cantillion -  Gilloise. A blend of 1,2, and 3 year old lambics.  Slight, funk, very enjoyable.
Parallel 49 - Hay Fever Saison . Wheaty, yeasty, good not great.
Logsdon Brewing - Seizon Bretta Don't take my word for it, Beer Magazine named this beer of the year.
Central City - Citra-Hopped Imperial IPA .  Solid, enjoyable IIPA.
Central City - Amarillo and Symcoe Imperial IPA.  Definite winner here.  A great beer.
Deschutes - The Abyss Prefer it in the bottle and slightly aged but who can possibly say no to this on draft.

Drink List for Day 4 (Thursday):

Allies Win the War

Ninkasi and 21st Amendment - Allies Win the War. The beer I came here on Thursday seeking and was not disappointed.  Malts really balancing the hops, an excellent American IPA.
Brooklyn Brewing - Brooklyn Blast. Solid but unremarkable, balanced IPA
Parallel 49 - Lord of the Hops.  Same as above, balanced, standard.
Tofino Brewing - Dawn Patrol Coffee Porter - Smoky, burned coffee taste, a really, really good porter.
Ninkasi - Imperiale Imperial Stout - Light to medium bodied, and not overly complex. Straightforward.
Central City - Bourbon Aged Thor's Hammer Barleywine.  Strong bourbon as expected but very smooth, a deadly, deadly beverage.

Just a few more words here in closing about Alibi Room.  When I moved up here to the frozen north from sunny San Diego, Alibi Room was a saving grace.  It was one of the few beer bars in the city of Vancouver and certainly the best.  Now, a few years later the craft beer scene has exploded and there are many fine beer bars in the city but the Alibi Room is still the best.  The food here is always excellent, the atmosphere without TVs or overdone music, and communal seating coerces its patrons to strike up a conversation with their neighbour.  A beer and a conversation is a great way to spend a couple of hours.  Additionally, the entire staff of Alibi Room are quite remarkable.  Even in the midst of chaos on Saturday nights (or 400 festivals), the servers are the epitome of polite and friendly and the bartenders will stop and give beer profiles and information to enquiring customers with earnest enthusiasm.  So, if you are traveling up (or over, or even down) to Vancouver, Alibi Room gets the rare "Run Do Not Walk" rating.  You will not be disappointed.  Alibi Room is located on the outer fringes of Gastown at 157 Alexander Street, Vancouver, BC.

Just One Pages of Goodies From "400"

How To Guide: Russian River Brewing Company

As someone pointed out to me last night, the log needs more travel tips to keep on the theme of beer traveling.  This is a valid insight, the purpose of the blog was not to just review things but to offer some type of guidance on how to get there and what to do.  This, coupled with a some beer enthusiasts enquiring about logistics in getting over to Russian River, has led to this blog, which will give some pointers on visiting Russian River Brewing Company's Brew Pub in Santa Rosa, California.

Step #1 - Enjoy the Golden Gate

Santa Rosa airport now has some direct flights from San Diego and other locations, but the majority of us will probably use San Francisco or Oakland as a port of entry, so I am covering arrival into SFO here.  Upon arrival into SFO, pick up your rental car and head north on the 101 over the Golden Gate, there is no toll going northward, and if you do not get to San Francisco often, this should not be missed.  Your total driving time is normally 80-90 minutes but totally dependent on possible hellish city traffic in Frisco.  North of the Golden Gate, traffic should open up and it is a straight shot on the 101 to Santa Rosa to exit 489 (3rd Street). Your first stop should be securing a location to park the car at your hotel.  Since I know you, and you are just here to enjoy libations at Russian River - I would recommend the Travelodge for accommodations.  It is basic, cheap, saves you cab ride (it is within stumbling distance about .4 miles or 750m) and you are probably going to be very drunk at the end of the evening and will not be worried about any amenities that may be missing.

From here you can proceed down the street, hang a left on 4th, and you have reached your nirvana point at 725 4th Street. I would be remiss if I did not warn that Russian River's legendary status in the craft beer world has created a crush of humanity trying to get into its doors.  The best bet "Pro Tip" (for lack of better verbiage) is to go during the week or early on a Sunday.  This will save you waiting for a table, or having to wait like a vulture for someone to surrender their bar seat.  The below pic is taken on a Sunday afternoon, I do have one from a Friday night but it is just the back of people's shirts (not very exciting).

Barrel Aging Goodness and Deliciousness from the Taps

Lots of strategies here depending on your fancy, you can go for variety with a taster selection offering, including the rather incredible everything sampler.  If you are here for the classics, I would recommend the Blind Pig IPA followed by Pliny the Elder followed by a break and then moving onto the Damnation and/or sour offerings.  However you tackle it, you will not be disappointed.  If you have come for bottles to take home to amaze friends and loved ones, check the chalkboard for what is available, not everything is always available.

For food options in the brew pub, I would go with the pizzas, which are a solid option.  If you are just here for a nibble, stick to the charcuterie plate or the caprese.  The brew pub is situated right in downtown Santa Rosa, so there are many options for a meal beforehand or afterwards..

So Much Goodness, So Little Time

Even The Ladies Love Russian River

But let's get back to those beers.  While everyone knows about Blind Pig and Pliny the Elder, Russian River also delivers a really delicious Belgian styled Golden Ale called Damnation.  This would rank up there with the classic true Belgian golden ales, banana, yeast, and spice. The barrel aged quartet of Consecration, Supplication, Beatification, and Temptation will satisfy "brett" junkies and pucker lips.  Consecration which is a dark ale aged in Cabernet Sauvignon barrels remains one of my favorite beers in the world.  Spice, currants, the wine, chocolate and more swirl in amazing complexity in this beer, and at 10% ABV, it packs a wallop.  There are also milder session beers available on tap here, like the Aud Blonde, O.V.L. Stout, and Saison Blonde.

Cheers to You If You Have Made It This Far

After you had your fill, retreat to your hotel room, hydrate and sleep it off. In the morning, get in your car and head over to Colibri (no website, just google it) for a solid breakfast and then plot you next move.  Bear Republic, North Coast, or retreating to the stellar bar options in San Francisco are all valid options.  It is good to have options, isn't it?

PS. If you are looking for the Younger, show up in early February and be prepared to wait in a very, very, very long line.

Hidden Gem - Elizabeth Station in Bellingham, Washington

Rejoice beer loving Vancouverites.  Does the humdrum beer offerings of Vancouver have you down?  Nothing against some of the fine local beverages available on this side of the border, but we all crave that American style place with hundreds and hundreds of bottles readily available.  A place free from the draconian and antiquated BC liquor laws, where beers flow in from across the US and Canada.  How far would you travel for such a place?

Well, it turns out that you do not have to travel very far at all.  Just over the border into Bellingham, Washington, this little hidden gem of a beer and wine bottle shop has what you seek.  And as an added bonus to the best local bottled beer selection, they have five taps available with super local, fresh offerings from small Pac-Northwest breweries.

Some Shopping and Some Sampling, My Day is Complete

Boasting northwards of 600 bottles, no-one will be disappointed with the selection of beer available.  But  what really makes it special is the wide geographic area their beer selection covers (particularly in the US). I cannot think of many places that I can pick up a Stillwater Ales special release, some offerings from Boulevard in Kansas City. as well San Diego offerings like Alesmith and Ballast Point as well as a fine selections of Belgians.  This particular day, I picked up a Great Divide Yeti Espresso Oak Aged Stout, an obscure herb infused beer from Stillwater named after their gastropub ("Of Love and Regret") and a Double IPA from Shipyard out of Maine, as well as a Speedway Stout from Alesmith, and a Chocolat Imperial Stout from Souther Tier.  Look it was deep into the winter months, so I needed those stouts, OK - normally I am much more varied.

In addition to the bottles, Elizabeth Station has long social tables (and even a kids table) available, free wi-fi, snacks on offer, and best off all 5 taps.  Taps right there in a liquor store - someone catch me, I am f**king swooning.  I chose the sampler package with four offerings a Chocolate Russian Imperial Stout from Widmer, an excellent Born & Raised from No-Li, a local Gose from Skagit River, and a Brown Ale from Island Hoppin'.  The beers were solid and the price was highly economical. The beers rotate often, and the super friendly staff always have an iPad giving a description of the beers on offer on ready display.

Elizabeth Station gets the rare "Run Don't Walk" rating.  If you are in Vancouver, it is a short hop over to Bellingham and the Station is with stumbling distance of the Chuckanut Bewery and Kitchen, so it is real easy to have a fabulous afternoon.  Elizabeth Station is located on 1400 Holly St. Bellingham, Washington in the downtown area of the city.  Vancouverites, go there and pick up for 8.75 liters of beer if you have stayed over stateside for 48 hours!!!

Draft Mag 100 Best Beer Bars (2013 Cont.) - Stumbling Monk in Seattle

Avec Les Bons Voeux and Me Enjoying an Angel's Share from Lost Abbey

Stop #2 on the tour of Draft Magazine's 100 Best Beer Bars in the United States (the list can be found here) is a small bar in Seattle called Stumbling Monk.  Remember those Halcyon Days where beer bars were quiet affairs.  Where it was just you and your pint and you could strike up a conversation with the three or four other people at the bar.  Those days when you get Pliny the Yonger without lining up three hours in advance, and Belgium meant everything to you.  Well, I am happy to report that there is a little time machine in Seattle that can take you back to those days.

The strength of Stumbling Monk is not in flashy decor or an outrageous selection.  Instead it offers a quaint but quirky interior and a handful of quality taps (maybe about 8 or so) and about 20 super quality bottles that can be enjoyed to go or in the bar itself.  On the night I went, I was able to enjoy an Avec Les Bons Voeux from Brasserie Dupont, a Bourbon Barrel Aged Angel's Share from Lost Abbey, and a Stille Nacht 2011 Vintage from Browerij de Dolle Brouwers.  That is a quality a trio served in appropriate glassware from a knowledgeable and friendly bartender.

There is no food here, but you are free to order food from any of the surrounding establishments and eat it here in the low lit, comfy interior of the Stumbling Monk.  You can even challenge your date or friend to a game of Battleship or Star Wars Trivial Pursuit (proof that beer geeks are just plain old geeks really).  This is just a plain old water hole open everyday from 6pm - 2am.  There isn't much to it, but it focuses on quality beers and a quiet retreat.  These days, that is a very rare find and makes this a worthy stop.

Draft Mag 100 Best Beer Bars (2013) - The Pine Box in Seattle

Draft Magazine recently released its 100 best beers in the US list.  Lists are always highly subjective or "crap" as one of my friends opined.  But what lists often give you is new information.  So it is best not to get too upset about the list's inclusions or omissions but to use it as a guide for your own exploration.  I recently found myself down in Seattle for a long weekend and I decided to stop in to at least a couple of the bars on the list.  Full disclosure here, in the past I have found Seattle (and in general the Pac-Northwest as a whole) overrated as a beer scene (both in breweries and bars).  So, I was excited to check out some of the listings in an effort to experience new places and get a fresh perspective.

The Converted Funeral Home Now a Classy Beer Bar

The first stop was the relatively new (opened in 2012) - The Pine Box.  You have to love a bar that has been built in the chapel of an old funeral home.  The results are very good. A big airy feel, with high ceilings, a 2nd floor for dining, and a quirky but very classy vibe to it all.  The bar itself is a long "L" with the bar space wide and roomy.  As an added bonus, the wood for the bar was taken out of the basement of the original funeral home, where its original purpose for shelving for the remains of those that have shuffled off their mortal coil.

The tap menu is 32 quality taps centered on local breweries but also including fine choices from across the US and abroad.  My personal favorite on this day was the wonderful, over the top, Imperial Stout from Dugges Ales in Sweden called (appropriately) Idjit!  Lots of roasted caramel and malts with coffee and chocolate tempered with a bit of vanilla. A real quality sipper for a cold, rainy Seattle day.  The bar staff were very attentive and helpful with assistance in picking beverages. It was obvious that they were beer lovers also and their detailed descriptions were appreciated.

Idiot Drinking Idjit!

The full bar is also well stocked, including some very local distilled spirits available (think local meaning, down the street).  I did not eat here on this day but the menu appeared delightful with fresh pizzas, some small plate options, and a handful of well thought out entrees. 

As stated, lists are always highly subjective.  Is The Pine Box one of the top 100 beer bars in the country?  That can certainly be debated, but it is a very visually cool spot, with quality beer and friendly staff.  That alone should make you stop and check it out while you are in Capitol Hill district of Seattle.  The Pine Box is located at 1600 Melrose Avenue in Seattle, Washington.  Their website is www.pineboxbar.com